Prusa Guru
From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Who is the Prusa Guru? I ordered my (assembled) Core One, and I love what I've been able to do so far, which is unbox, turn it on, and connect it to the network. I can't move the Y axis more than an inch or so forward. Acts like it's hitting something. Can't detect what/where. Anyone knows more about these than I do want a pour or beer on me this weekend? -Dave=============================================================== From: Lee Walker Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Did you remove all the shipping fixtures. There are normally a few on all the axis. It sounds like one of those is still in there somewhere - at a guess Lee Walker Principal Engineer 404-405-1194 l.s.walker (Skype) www.codejourneymen.com Code Journeymen LLC 1028 Signal Mountain Road Suite #103, Chattanooga TN, 37405
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ I believe I have removed all the packing materials. I have determined=20 it is bumping into the door handle on the right side. Not sure how to=20 fix it just yet. -Dave I love an ect what/ on me
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Annoying, everything seems to be in a fixed position to line up with=20 screw holes. It will calibrate with the right door removed at least. -Dave ined=20 w to=20 d) Core One, and I love urn it on, and axis more than an =C2=A0 Can't detect what/ o want a pour or beer on me
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ And we have a keychain printed :) Currently stuck to the bed, but one=20 step at a time :) Thanks for checking in :) -Dave st. mined=20 ow to=20 ed) Core One, and I=20 turn it on, and Y axis more than an .=C2=A0 Can't detect what/ do want a pour or beer on me
=============================================================== From: Aaron welch Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ I LOVE my Cryogrip print beds. They are the best purchase I have made for my 3D printers. Makes first layer adhesion issues go away and make part separation super easy once the plate is cool. -Aaron 20 20 lea=3D eter=3D re h=3D g=3D20 ered my (assembl=3D h is unbox, =3D can't move the =3D itting something=3D about these than I =3D --=20 Aaron Welch Chief Mechanic @ Geek Ventures 423-505-9999 n2nightfall@gmail.com "Enabling people to do great things with their own ideas."
=============================================================== From: Stephen Kraus Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ +1, using the cryogrips on my Bambus for Nylon and ABS =3D20 =3D20 t lea=3D deter=3D ure h=3D ug=3D20 dered my (assembl=3D ch is unbox, =3D I can't move the =3D hitting something=3D e about these than I =3D
=============================================================== From: Mike Harrison Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ " Who is the Prusa Guru? " Unsure if I am at Guru status..I built my Core One+ from kit. It's been pretty good but more finicky than my Prusa XL. Wish you'd called. :) Sounds like you have it sorted out. Am getting caught up after a lot of outdoor work this weekend. Currently printing a Mini (10" approx)rack for Ryan (son). It seems I've had 2-3 printers running solid for weeks now. Everyone needs something. Also: FreeCad on Linux is worth learning.
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ =20 =20 rack=20 It's the side sensor assembly that's causing the issue. Need to get=20 back downstairs and take another look and see if I can fix it, basement=20 is quite dusty. You are welcome to educate me, and I'm happy to provide=20 the Rye :) With Gratitude, Dave Brockman Senior Network Engineer Gig City Cloud, LLC
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ ini=20 et=20 =20 rovide=20 Tore out and re-attached the the entire right side. Only lost one screw=20 in the process. WTF does Prusa ship/use 3 different head type 3Mr4=20 Screws? Phillips it is! Don't know what I did, but I found the extra=20 mm apparently :) Would love to grab lunch and chat generalities. Have=20 had a few successful prints and am excited to dig deeper. Have had a=20 couple of spaghetti monsters, and a couple of non-sticky-eff-u models,=20 but I'm still in the print my tool holder and sheet holder stage of the=20 game :) And in the late notice spirit of Chugalug, I hereby call the next=20 meeting Friday @ 1PM at Mike's Tavern. If it's nice, we can grab a=20 couple of tables on the patio, if it's not, we can grab a few tables in=20 the bar. My penguin is tiny and shy, so look for the guy in the grey=20 leather cowboy hat. With Gratitude, Dave Brockman Senior Network Engineer Gig City Cloud, LLC
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Well, I'm not using it on Linux, but I am finding it frustrating. OpenSCAD seems to have a much simpler learning curve with actual documentation. https://www.printables.com/model/1364462-fluke-microscanner2-replacement-cap/collections The insert, the 3.6mm hole in the center(look from the bottom), I want to make it 5mm, and all the way through at 5mm, no 2mm part. Anyone wanna help a brother out? Whiskey on me if you tell me how in FreeCAD :) I've spent almost 3 hours reading/watching and I've gotten literally nowhere :( With Gratitude, Dave Brockman Senior Network Engineer Gig City Cloud, LLC
=============================================================== From: Phil Sieg Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Dave, I use Tinker CAD because it=E2=80=99s dead ass simple. It=E2=80=99s like CA= D for old Photoshop users. You make the shape that you want, and then you create negative spaces to take away from it if you need to. An example would be to make a hexagonal nut. You create a hexagon, the size that you need by, dragging and dropping and changing the measurements. Then you create a screw out of negative space that you punch through the middle of it and you marry the two. Now you have a hexagonal nut. Phil Sieg Founder ring-u llc www.ring-u.com phil@ring-u.com Phone: 423.567.4888 Mobile: 423.331.0725 "The computer is the most remarkable tool that we've ever come up with. It's the equivalent of a bicycle for our minds." Steve Jobs, 1955-2011 cap/collections
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ e CAD for old=20 Thanks, I'll give that one a shot as well. o=20 I'm familiar with the concept, I just can't manipulate my tool (FreeCAD)=20 to perform the operations I want to perform. Thanks for the help! With Gratitude, Dave Brockman Senior Network Engineer Gig City Cloud, LLC
=============================================================== From: "Jeffrey A. Wormsley Via chugalug" ------------------------------------------------------ I always have trouble with modifying pre-made parts because they are usually STEP files, and when you import those, you get thousands of faces instead of just a few. Sometimes recreating from scratch is faster than figuring out how to manipulate something someone else has already made. But for making a hole through something, you can import the STEP, create a body, drag the imported part into the body, then create a sketch on the same plane as you want the hole (helps if it the hole is perpendicular to one of the origin planes), then create a hole using that sketch going through everything deep enough to go through what you want. Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to get the hole absolutely centered on the existing hole, but by zooming in enough, I'm probably not more than 0.01mm off, so this may work for what you want. (Not sure if the attachment will go through, if not, email me at daworm at gmail dot com. Jeff 80=3D99s lik=3D =3D =3D20
=============================================================== From: Michael Harrison Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ I hate step files. I'd start here and probably give up and just draw it from scratch or trace the step files. https://hackaday.com/2023/04/16/using-step-and-stl-files-in-freecad/ Maybe in the morning. Already marinated some ice cubes. cap/collections
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Thanks man! I'll let you know, not sure if I'll get it on the printer=20 before I crash, current print still has an hour to go. Thank you so=20 much for the effort and explanation.... that is totally nothing like=20 anything I found. I have been going down substrate cylinders, hole=20 part, etc rabbit holes! Attachie came through! With Gratitude, Dave Brockman =20 port=20 n=20 e a=20 et the=20 ,=20 me at=20 elp!
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Thanks for link. I have marinated a glass or two myself, but look=20 forward to diving in tomorrow. Jeff may have given me a big hint with=20 sketch instead of part workbench. I thought I wanted a very simple=20 thing lol. Cheers! With Gratitude, Dave Brockman or=20 ant Anyone FreeCAD
=============================================================== From: Dave Brockman Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Sir, I owe you a pour of your choosing :) You provided what I asked.=20 Unfortunately, I need several other modifications, so starting from=20 scratch may me the path forward. I found MangoJelly's 1.1 tuts, which are helping. So much of my pain=20 was differences in v1.1 and v1.0 (most tuts are still there). In other news, as Mike suggested, PEI plates are amazing with PLA :)=20 Clogged my first nozzle, created my first "print up the print-head in a=20 giant cluster of shite", and found a local filament manufacturer less=20 than 1.5 miles from my house. It was a fun weekend. Happy Easter to all the celebrate. With Gratitude, Dave Brockman =20 port=20 n=20 e a=20 et the=20 ,=20 me at=20 elp! =09
=============================================================== From: Stephen Kraus Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ I run PEI plates with all my prints, although I mostly do ABS, TPU, and Nylon =3D20 0 =3D20 =3D20 =3D20 0 20 0 h is=3D =3D20 n im=3D 0the=3D 0 reat=3D to g=3D =3D 20 ail =3D =3D20 e. he h=3D
=============================================================== From: "Jeffrey A. Wormsley Via chugalug" ------------------------------------------------------ Scratch is usually the best. A lot of things don't have to be too precise, so for flat(ish) things, you can often import the STEP, drop a sketch on the face and trace out the features as close as you can to get the basic outline, then delete the original STEP and go from there. The linear measurements and hole sizes can be from the real part or printing the STEP as is, it's the curve radiuses that I usually have to guess at, but with a sketch and some guesswork, they aren't too bad. As I once told Mike, if you learn to start the model with parameters rather than just plugging in measurements, the world gets a whole lot wider, and changes can get a whole lot easier. A bit more work up front, but not a lot, with a lot of return. Jeff =3D20 0 =3D20 =3D20 =3D20 0 20 0 h is=3D =3D20 n im=3D 0the=3D 0 reat=3D to g=3D =3D 20 ail =3D =3D20 e. he h=3D
=============================================================== From: Stephen Kraus Via chugalug ------------------------------------------------------ Speaking of 3d modeling I will be bringing my Creality Sermoon P1 3d scanner to demo at the Linux installfest Saturday 20 =3D20 =3D20 20 =3D20 20 ch is=3D =3D20 an im=3D A0the=3D 20 creat=3D to g=3D h=3D =3D20 mail =3D g=3D20 le. the h=3D